Make sure it will not move my hot gluing it down. Is there anyway you can put a small piece of mirror, even a plane regular mirror, in the set up to capture some overflow light and direct it to the back of the object? A good place would be to place it right next to the object and prop it up to reflect light next to the object that would otherwise miss the obect up to the object. The most common cause of the depth problem you are having is a lack of coherence or less likely (as you stated your coherence is long) is the back of the objects are not getting enough light. The best objects are flat white objects not shiney objects like coins. If so then what is happening is the coins are acting like mirrors and they are reflecting most of the light back to the plate at just one angle, just like a mirror. Is there a spot where the coins are very very bright? Most likely view it from below the hologram almost where the light would reflect in your eyes. Then view the hologram by moving your head through a buch of differnt angles. Is the dimness of my coins due to something I'm doing or should I expectĬarolyn, set up the coin hologram so that a point source white light is hitting the hologram close to the same angle of the recording reference beam. Why can't I see my entire train in the others? It doesn't get more than 2 inches from the plate but you can only see the closest sections. Then I tried one with coins which seems to have turned out fairly well.you can see it (and no stripes!!).but its kind of dim. They're also a lot harder to see then they were in my first try Also I have stripes in this one but they're vertical and both edges are jagged, which I'm taking to mean (unless someone corrects me) that light entered through the both side edges and just happened to meet in the right spots to overlap stripes and make both edges look jagged. It's kinda cool though bc you can see the front part of the train.and sorta peer around the cow catcher and you can see some of the amethyst. The 8 second one I think I developed right, but you still can't see the entire thing so I'm really starting to get frustrated about this. I might've also left it in the first solution too long. Also the plate is cloudy but I think that that is because I left it in the bleach too long. the 15 sec exposure turned out s much easier to find and there are no stripes, however, you still can't see the whole thing.only the closest sections. But such considerations are taking me to a “dark place” regarding my curve tool, that is, what do I need to do to get it out of the old 0-255 paradigm and allow one to construct proper curves over the high bit-depth display range.So my holograms are dry. With regard to such tools in rawproc, I’m actually going the other way 0.9 is going to remove my simplistic shadow, highlight, and contrast tools, as I now prefer to do such manually with a spline curve. It goes into a “one tone curve to rule them all” sort of mental discourse (ha, there’s a fancy way to refer to ‘talking to ones self’… ) and the never-ending quest for reliable ETTR. Photoflow relight how to#Your thread has come at an opportune time for me, as I’m working through this very consideration in figuring out how to use the new camera. Thing is, the upper values are maybe too saturated in the relight rendition, at least to my eyes. In the processing chain up to the curve, I kept the original proof raw conversion except to remove the blackwhitepoint scaling, and I added a camera space → working profile transform.
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